Devil’s Lair 30 Year Anniversary: 1990 – 2020
In January 2020 I attended an intimate retrospective tasting of the Devil’s Lair chardonnays and cabernets back to their very first vintages. In attendance were the winemakers who contributed their skills and attention over that period and the long-standing viticulturist Simon Robertson (in 2020 he celebrated his 27th vintage at Devil’s lair). Founded in the 80’s by Phil Sexton and John Jens, Devil’s Lair was later purchased by Southcorp and is now a part of the Treasury Group.
Rarely does one gain entry into private tastings such as these… this day gave me the most thorough overview of the vinous history of any winery that I have ever experienced. I felt incredibly priveledged to be a part of the day.
A word to those who have these wines (particularly the older wines sealed under cork) in your cellars: Just because some of the cork bottles were not looking their best in this tasting, does not necessarily mean yours will be the same. Corks are notoriously variable and I have had countless experiences with appalling looking corks… to my dismay they have come out crumbling, broken off or soaked through almost to the seal and yet the wines have still been immaculate. The corks have done their job and preserved the wine. ‘You don’t know til you know’, as they say..
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1991 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13% Alc, made by John Wade
Orange peel, white pepper, hints of white chocolate, touches of saffron. Soft and round, the acidity remains lifted. The explosive Gin Gin power has gone.
92/100
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1992 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13% Alc, made by Janice McDonald and John Wade
Grilled grapefruit here, much fresher – stewed red apple, a Campari/bitter orange seam, spice… again that acid!
94/100
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1993 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Yellow peach here… fresher again, the acidity has a hard edge. Fruit is round and concentrated. All up front… it is languid and drawn out but not as long as I would have hoped.
92/100
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1994 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald.
Darker in colour and moving to toffee apple and white chocolate. This is full and round, the alcohol is worn on the sleeve. Previous vintages taste fresher.
90/100
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1995 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Much of the fresh primary fruit has morphed into baked pastry goods with a salty/Fino edge. There is bitterness here. This has reached the end of the line. Prem-ox
84/100
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1996 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 14.5%, made by Janice McDonald
Developed colour and aroma. Even more tertiary and lacking in freshness than in previous wines. Prem-ox.
82/100
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1997 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Infinitely brighter in both aroma and colour, yellow peach, pomelo, orange skins and hints of sweet mandarin. Flattens out through the finish but good length.
90/100
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1999 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Layers of spice and fresh fruit, rich ripe and round, sea salt, citrus blossom, mandarin pith. Yellow grapefruit acidity, suggestions of curry leaf, fennel and white pepper. The fruit is pure and on a beautiful arc of condition. There is a modern layer in here. 95/100
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2000 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Dark in colour. Missing all primary fruit. Developed.
80/100
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2001 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Toasty oak surrounds gracefully ageing fruit. This has grilled peach, crushed nuts and moves into a recognisably Margaret River space. There is a style shift here.
94/100
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2002 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Cork, 13.5%, made by Stuart Pym
Dark golden and developed. Although some of the fruit is evident on the nose.
84/100
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2003 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Last vintage sealed under cork, 13.5%Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Brighter, fresher and more modern. Layers of spice and fruit but no evolution of flavour.
91/100
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2004 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Green glints in the glass. Vibrant and fresh – there is orange pith, yellow peach, curry leaf, crushed cashew… the acidity holds all in perfect tension.
95+/100
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2005 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym and Charlotte Newton
Again with the bright green glints, the nose has shut down for now and speaks only of grapefruit pith and solids. The palate is tight and restrained, the fruit power carries this through into a long finish.
94+/100
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2006 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym and Charlotte Newton
Good but very lean, the fruit has no expansion. Tight and linear. No surprise given vintage conditions.
93/100
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2007 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym and Charlotte Newton
Powerful fruit nestles in just behind the teeth, an explosive start like a sprinter in the blocks. Oak, fruit, acid, spice and texture all rise together. This is the best chardonnay made at the estate thus far.
96/100
* Interesting, 2007 was the shortest and warmest vintage on record at Devil’s, and the winemaker consensus in the room is that is lacks travel and is simple. I thought this showed fantastic generosity of fruit and harmonious overall.
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During Olliver Crawford’s years (2008 – 2014), ‘no new oak let the fruit stand for itself’. Earlier picking (.5 baume earlier), all wild malo. Louis Latour oak.
…at its peak, 10,000 cases of hand-picked chardonnay… [2010/2011/2012] – Olly Crawford
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2008 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford
A time capsule. Incredibly fresh, many producers aren’t making wines this fresh in 2019. The 07, 08 and 09 are indistinguishable in colour. Spicy. Very long. Flashes of green. Exciting.
95+/100
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2009 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford
An exercise in balance. Wonderful tension and freshness. Wears the vintage well. 95+/100
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2009 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Chardonnay
* First vintage *
Screwcap, made by Olly Crawford
Rich and layered, this moves into the bitter orange, saffron, pith, grapefruit spectrum in the best possible way. Very long. Explosive.
96/100
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2010 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford
Rich, round and layered: powerful… this marries old and new style… curry leaf, brine, grapefruit, saffron, everything I know and expect from great MR chardonnay. 95/100
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2011 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller
Classic. Concentrated fruit, wicked acid, very fresh, oak still a main component. Flinty.
94/100
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2011 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Chardonnay
Screwcap, 12.5% Alc, made Olly Crawford and by Ben Miller
The acidity bristles in this wine – the fruit is intensely concentrated and focused. A brilliant wine. Scintillating, in fact.
96+/100
The other time I have tried this vintage in recent times:
22.6.2018
“1) I’ve been looking at a lot of wines from Devil’s Lair recently. I dug this out of the back of my wine fridge – clearly a Vintec Bordeaux because just look at the label destruction. 2) I did it to see how the 2011 looks VS the 2015 (new release that I tried earlier today). They’re both great, but this wine was a 10/10. Super concentrated and rich but tempered by an incredibly fresh and vibrant acidity. Meaning the bottle was knocked off in a shorter time than I’d planned.”
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2012 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 12% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller
Concentrated citrus fruit, balanced, very very good, but clearly showing the difference between Estate and 9th – it lacks the extra dimension of 9th.
94+/100
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2013 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller
The difference between Estate and 9th is huge. This is fresh, youthful, concentrated, but shorter and simpler than the 9th.
93/100
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2013 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller.
“Playing around with other growers in 2013” – Olly C.
So restrained right now, with SO MUCH POWER. It is coiled. Long. Still sleeping. The fruit/spice/acidity is crystal clear – all in balance and harmony.
96/100
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2014 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Olly Crawford (2014 is his last vintage) and Ben Miller. “At this point, vineyard 1 forms the core of the chardonnay” Olly C
A floral blossom nose, green pineapple, granny smith. A mineral vein runs through this detailed wine. Powerful. The acidity has a real bristle and zing.
95/100
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2015 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 12.5% Alc, made by Luke Skeer and Ben Miller
Powerful and expansive – 2015 was a year for that in chardonnay – it builds, but there is not as much detail as previous.
94/100
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2015 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Chardonnay
Screwcap, 12.5% Alc, made by Luke Skeer and Ben Miller
Here. This is it. That fruit resides right behind the teeth; the acidity forms a bristling boundary around it, carrying it through, over the palate and into the long finish. This was the first vintage to come from Vineyard 3.
96/100
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2016 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 12.5% Alc, made by Luke Skeer and Ben Miller
Lithe, energetic, concentrated, but weightless. This is very good.
94+/100
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2017 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Ben Miller and Matt Godfrey
Concentrated and full – fantastically poised. Mouth-watering.
95/100
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2017 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Chardonnay (tasted pre-release)
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Ben Miller and Matt Godfrey
Very closed currently, but ripe, restrained, powerful, long, exciting. This is succulent. Plump. Stone fruit and spice. Wholly from Vineyard 3. 50% wild malo.
96/100
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2018 Devil’s Lair Estate Chardonnay
Screwcap, 13% Alc, made by Ben Miller and Matt Godfrey
As with all the estate wines thus far – utterly fantastic but missing the extra 9th dimension. This is layered, balanced, rich, full.
94+/100
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1990 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 13% Alc, made by John Wade
Spice, black plum, very Margaret River. Elegant and mostly fresh. Tomato bush, red currant, tobacco. Lacking any serious fruit density.
92/100
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1991 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 13% Alc, made by John Wade
Musty nose, palate has some cobwebs. The memory of freshness remains but this is not alive today. Nor will be again.
84/100
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1992 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 13% Alc, made by Janice McDonald and John Wade
Beautiful. Mulberry, pomegranate, black spice. The oak is elegant, complementary to the fruit. Hints of balsamic strawberry. Gorgeous.
94/100
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1993 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Smells like a 70’s beach summer (aka Jaws) – sea salt, coconut – the fruit is salted raspberry, mulberry. Awesome. It hovers just over fresh/primary, very exciting. Fennel top notes, fine chalky tannins.
94/100
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1994 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Stewed plums, salted tomatoes… An interesting and elegant wine but lacking some definition. It is graceful though. Perhaps not perfect nick, but close. Lovely.
94/100
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1996 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Spicy blood plum, mulberry, hints of pomegranate, the tannins are fine and soft, a lovely elegant succulent wine. The structure remains but it is suggestive, rather than assertive.
95-/100
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1997 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Not a great bottle. Touch stewy. Palate is chewy and elegant and I love the aftertaste. Not seamless or consistent though.
90/100
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1998 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Succulent fruit sits alongside spice and fine structure. This is pleasurable and a crowd pleaser.
94/100
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1999 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Perfect. Acidity and fruit play hand in hand. Purity matches elegance, this is red and black fruits… good length. Love the spice and the full concentration of flavour on the back of the palate.
95/100
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2000 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Janice McDonald
Juicy and dark on the nose – very primary! The berry fruit is almost creamy, this is in the perfect position between youth and maturity.
96/100
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2001 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Juicy sweet red fruit, a rosewater/crushed pistachio character… pretty and elegant. Tannins are fine.
94/100
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2002 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Cork, 14% Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Plush and ripe, this is languid, balanced, ripe. Plump and lovely. Spicy. Power through the mid-palate/finish.
95/100
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2003 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Last vintage sealed under cork, 14% Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Maraschino cherry, plum, spicy and dark. Lacks an extra dimension but is a lovely wine. Could be aged further but why?
92+/100
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2004 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14% Alc, made by Stuart Pym
Fresh, bright vibrant – the tannins are starting to build and make themselves known. Layered and texturally complex; good length.
95/100
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2005 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14% Alc, made by Stuart Pym and Charlotte Newton
Tobacco, resinous oak, blackberries. Really well managed tannin. This has decades in front of it, and in a beautiful place today.
95+/100
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2006 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym and Charlotte Newton
Sweet nose, raspberry floss, crushed pistachio, watery rim – the wine lacks body and density. This is a claret.
91/100
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2007 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Stuart Pym and Charlotte Newton
Plummy fruit and berries, you can taste the warmth and sunshine here. Pleasing and pleasurable, not detailed or layered.
92/100
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2008 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 13.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford
A very restrained nose and as with the chardonnay, a time capsule wine. Fresh and ripe. Layered. Beautiful. Long.
96+/100
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2010 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14% Alc, made by Olly Crawford
This is primary. Swallowed it. Gorgeous. Plump and yet lithe, tannins keep the fruit in check. The spice layer is delicate and nuanced. Medium bodied. Love the detail here.
95/100
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2011 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller
Spicy red berries, salted tomatoes, brine. Full and ripe, this is plush and concentrated. Love it.
95-/100
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2011 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller. Fruit from grower, Franklin Simon in Cowaramup.
100% new French. More depth and concentration here, the tannins remain powder fine but have more grip. Decades left in the tank. Finesse and grace.
96/100
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2012 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller
Succulent red berries, perfect, gorgeous, structured, elegant, ripe cabernet. Higher alc.
95+/100
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2013 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller
Red fruit, strawberry and raspberry spectrum. Plush and concentrated.
94+/100
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2013 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford and Ben Miller. “Playing around with other growers in 2013” – Olly C.
100% new oak. The oak carries a shadow; a black resinous character over the daytime that is the bright fruit. Sensational stuff. Married to the fruit like day is to night. This is spicy, rich, complex and long. Love it. Very energetic with zero chill at this stage.
96+/100
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2014 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Olly Crawford (2014 is his last vintage) and Ben Miller
I love this as a cabernet vintage. Not as polished as the ‘13, but succulent and juicy. It’s all in the tannins, these are not as finely woven as the ’13. More raw and approachable…
94/100
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2016 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14% Alc, made by Luke Skeer and Ben Miller
Juniper berry, blackberry, cassis, raspberry, red licorice and length. Supple. Beautiful. The best estate cabernet to date. Powdery fine tannins. Speaks truly of Margaret River.
96+/100
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2017 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14.5% Alc, made by Ben Miller and Matt Godfrey
Pretty, pink, sweet, juicy, raspberry fruit – alcohol is energetic. But this is fabulous.
95/100
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2017 Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber Cabernet Sauvignon (tasted pre-release)
Screwcap, 14% Alc, made by Ben Miller and Matt Godfrey
Worthy of 9th. Poise. Layered, textural, long. Pomegranate, red apple, strawberry. Fruit from Rosabrook.
96/100
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2018 Devil’s Lair Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Screwcap, 14% Alc, made by Ben Miller and Matt Godfrey
My favourite yet. Fuschia/magenta in colour, fruit is almost impenetrable at this stage. Long. Detailed. Layered. Sheer youth and bounce. Glossy fruit.
95+/100
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