Dukes Vineyard, Magpie Hill Reserve New Block Riesling 2018
Firstly (and perhaps most importantly), this wine at the time of writing, is still available for purchase (and delivery) direct from the cellar door in the Great Southern. $180 for a case of 6 + delivery.
Secondly, it’s every bit as beautiful as I remember. Almost clear in colour it is so pale, this is a scintillating expression of Porongurup riesling. With the regional hallmark white floral nose and the chalky minerality on the palate, this has slightly more fruit generosity than the Magpie Hill Reserve (which is all about line, length, focus and crystalline purity). To stand at Duke’s cellar door, and to look through the glass and up the rocky range beyond is a pretty grounding experience. It’s clear why the rieslings taste as they do from the Porongurups. The earth is hard, fertile, rocky. The air is crisp, pure and fresh. It’s a magical place and so are the rieslings. Duke’s wines are made by the ‘riesling-whisperer’ himself, Rob Diletti (of Castle Rock a bit further down the same road) and the wines could not shake off their pedigree and provenance If they tried. Classy of the first order. Yes.